Nukus City Guide: Savitsky Museum and quiet streets

The first thing that struck me about Nukus was the silence. After the bustling markets of Bukhara and the tourist-filled streets of Samarkand, the wide, quiet avenues of this remote city felt almost surreal. As I walked from my hotel toward the Savitsky Museum on that crisp morning, I passed only a handful of locals going about their day, their curious glances confirming what I already knew—tourists don't often make it to this corner of Uzbekistan.

Yet here I was in Nukus, the capital of Karakalpakstan (an autonomous republic within Uzbekistan), drawn by what many call "the Louvre of the Steppes." What I discovered over the next two days was a city that offers a completely different experience from the Silk Road highlights that dominate most Uzbekistan itineraries—and an art museum that alone justifies the long journey here.

Nukus City - Savitsky Museum

The Savitsky Museum: A desert treasure trove of forbidden art

The Savitsky Museum (officially the State Museum of Arts of the Republic of Karakalpakstan) houses one of the world's most remarkable art collections, assembled through acts of quiet defiance during the Soviet era. The building itself is unassuming—a modern structure that gives little hint of the treasures inside.

"Most visitors come here with no expectations," explained my guide Azamat. "They leave completely amazed."

I understood why as soon as we entered the first gallery. The museum’s collection exceeds 90,000 works, including around 10,000 pieces of Russian avant-garde art — the second-largest collection of its kind in the world. These daring, experimental works from the 1920s and 1930s were banned under Stalin's regime and would have been destroyed if not for the museum's founder, Igor Savitsky.

The story of how this collection came to exist in remote Nukus is as fascinating as the art itself. Savitsky, a Russian painter and archaeologist, first came to Karakalpakstan in 1950 as part of an archaeological expedition. He fell in love with the region and eventually moved to Nukus, where he began collecting art that had been banned by Soviet authorities.

The State Museum of Arts of the Republic of Karakalpakstan

Working far from Moscow's watchful eye, Savitsky rescued thousands of artworks, often traveling across the Soviet Union to find pieces hidden in attics and basements. He convinced the Karakalpak government to fund his purchases, sometimes using creative accounting to acquire controversial works. When officials occasionally visited the museum, he would temporarily remove the most provocative pieces.

The museum displays only a fraction of its vast collection at any time, but what's on view is extraordinary. I was particularly moved by works from artists like:

• Alexander Volkov, whose vibrant paintings blend European modernism with Central Asian motifs
• Lyubov Popova's bold geometric compositions that exemplify Russian Constructivism
• Mikhail Kurzin's expressionist works, created after he was sent to Central Asia as a political exile

Beyond the Russian avant-garde, the museum also houses an impressive collection of folk art from Karakalpakstan, including traditional jewelry, costumes, and carpets that tell the story of this region's unique cultural heritage.

Practical information:

• Opening hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM (closed Mondays)
• Admission: 50,000 som (approximately $4)
• Photography without flash is allowed; small personal cameras and phones are free, but professional cameras may require a small fee
• Guided tours in English available for 100,000 som

Exploring Nukus: Wide avenues and Soviet legacy

After spending a morning immersed in the museum's artistic treasures, I ventured out to explore the city itself. Nukus has a distinctly different feel from other Uzbek cities—its wide, grid-like streets and Soviet-era architecture reflect its relatively young age. Nukus began developing as the region’s administrative center in the early 1930s and became the capital of Karakalpakstan by the end of that decade.

The main streets are lined with administrative buildings, many featuring the monumental style typical of Soviet architecture. Wandering through the central area, I found the stark Government Building with its imposing columns, and nearby, the striking monument to Berdakh, a revered Karakalpak poet.

Unlike the ancient medinas of Bukhara or Khiva, Nukus has a more spacious, orderly layout. The streets are unusually wide, creating an almost eerily empty feeling in some areas. As one local explained to me, "The city was built for a future that never quite arrived."

This sense of spaciousness extends to Nukus's central park, where I stopped to rest under the shade of a tree. Families strolled along the paths, and children played near the fountains. It felt like a typical scene you might find in any provincial city, yet there was something uniquely tranquil about it.

What I found most interesting about Nukus was its authenticity. This isn't a city that caters to tourists—it's a place where you can experience everyday Uzbek life away from the well-trodden tourist path.

Local life: Markets and meals

To get a better sense of local life, I headed to the central bazaar. While smaller than markets in Tashkent or Samarkand, the Nukus bazaar offers a genuine look at daily commerce in Karakalpakstan. Vendors sold fresh produce, dried fruits, and household goods, while the food section offered a chance to sample local specialties.

I tried shivit oshi, a green noodle dish colored with dill that's popular in this region, and sampled kurt, dried yogurt balls that are an acquired taste but a staple snack throughout Central Asia.

The vendors I met were curious about what brought me to Nukus. When I mentioned the Savitsky Museum, they nodded with understanding and pride. "People come from all over the world to see our museum," one elderly woman selling dried apricots told me. "It's something special we have here."

In the evening, I dined at one of the few restaurants catering to tourists, where the menu featured both Karakalpak specialties and more familiar Uzbek dishes like plov (rice pilaf). The restaurant was quiet, with just a few other guests—a reminder that Nukus receives only a fraction of the visitors that flock to Uzbekistan's more famous destinations.

Nukus: Desert fortresses

Day trips from Nukus: Desert fortresses and environmental tragedy

While the Savitsky Museum is Nukus's main attraction, the city also serves as a base for exploring the surrounding region. Two excursions are particularly popular:

The Ancient Desert Fortresses
Within an hour’s drive from Nukus lie the ruins of Toprak-Kala and Gyaur-Kala, part of the Ancient Khorezm Fortresses network, ancient fortresses that once protected the borders of Khorezm, a powerful kingdom that flourished in this region over 2,000 years ago. These mud-brick structures have been battered by the desert winds for centuries, but they still convey the impressive scale of this lost civilization.

The Aral Sea
Perhaps the most sobering day trip from Nukus is to Moynaq, once a thriving fishing port on the shores of the Aral Sea. Due to Soviet irrigation projects that diverted water from the rivers feeding the sea, the Aral has shrunk dramatically, and Moynaq now lies nearly 100 kilometers from what was once the Aral Sea shoreline. The "ship cemetery" there—rusting fishing vessels stranded in the desert—offers a stark reminder of one of the world's worst environmental disasters.

I opted for the fortress tour, spending a fascinating day exploring these ancient structures with a knowledgeable local guide. The landscapes around Nukus are harsh but beautiful, with expanses of desert stretching to the horizon.

Practical tips for visiting Nukus

Based on my experience, here are some tips for travelers considering a visit to this off-the-beaten-path destination:

• Getting there: Nukus is served by regular flights from Tashkent (1.5 hours). There's also a train connection, but it takes around 20 hours.
• Where to stay: Accommodation options are limited but improving. Jipek Joli Hotel offers clean, comfortable rooms with English-speaking staff and is within walking distance of the museum.
• When to visit: Spring (April-May) and fall (September-October) offer the most pleasant temperatures. Summer can be extremely hot, with temperatures regularly exceeding 40°C (104°F).
• Money matters: ATMs are available in central areas and major hotels, though international cards may not always work reliably—bring some cash as backup. Bring enough cash (preferably US dollars to exchange) for your entire stay.
• Language: Few people speak English in Nukus. Basic Russian phrases are more widely understood than in other parts of Uzbekistan.
• Connectivity: Wi-Fi is available at hotels but can be slow. Consider purchasing a local SIM card in Tashkent before heading to Nukus.
• Food options: There are limited restaurant choices. The hotel restaurants are reliable, and there are a few local eateries near the central market.

Is Nukus worth visiting?

Nukus isn't for everyone. If you're pressed for time in Uzbekistan, the magnificent historical sites of Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva will likely be your priorities. But for travelers seeking a deeper understanding of Uzbekistan beyond the standard tourist circuit, Nukus offers something special.

The Savitsky Museum alone justifies the journey for art lovers and those interested in Soviet history. The collection's unlikely existence in this remote corner of Uzbekistan is a testament to human courage and the power of art to survive even the most oppressive regimes.

Beyond the museum, Nukus provides a glimpse into contemporary life in Uzbekistan away from the tourist centers. The city's quiet streets, its markets, and the surrounding landscapes offer an authentic experience that complements the historical wonders found elsewhere in the country.

As I left Nukus after two days of exploration, I felt I'd seen a different side of Uzbekistan—one less polished and preserved for tourists, but no less fascinating for it.

FAQs about visiting Nukus

How many days should I spend in Nukus?

Two days is ideal—one full day for the Savitsky Museum and exploring the city, and a second day for a day trip to either the desert fortresses or Moynaq. If you're pressed for time, you could see the museum and city basics in a single full day.

Is it safe to visit Nukus?

Yes, Nukus is generally very safe for tourists. Crime rates are low, and locals are typically helpful and welcoming to the few visitors who make it here. As with any destination, take normal precautions with valuables and be respectful of local customs.

Can I visit the Savitsky Museum without a guide?

Yes, you can explore the museum independently, and there are some English descriptions for major works. However, a guide significantly enhances the experience by explaining the historical context and the fascinating stories behind how these forbidden artworks were saved.

When planning your journey to Uzbekistan, including unique destinations like Nukus can add depth to your travel experience. While many travelers focus exclusively on the famous Silk Road cities, Uzbekistan has much more to offer beyond these well-known sites.

If you're planning a comprehensive Uzbekistan itinerary, consider starting with the capital Tashkent, then exploring the historic sites across the country. With the right visa arrangements, you can easily include both mainstream destinations and off-the-beaten-path gems like Nukus.

Uzbekistan has significantly simplified its visa procedures in recent years. After submitting your application, you can track your e-visa status online and prepare for your journey to this fascinating Central Asian nation.

Before finalizing your travel plans, take time to review the current visa requirements for your nationality. Once approved, you can complete your payment securely and begin planning your adventure through Uzbekistan's diverse landscapes and cultural treasures.

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