Peshawar Old City Heritage Walk: Qissa Khwani Bazaar and Sethi House

Axel Donovan

September 12, 2025

Nestled at the eastern edge of the Khyber Pass, Peshawar stands as one of South Asia's oldest living cities. For over 2,000 years, this frontier metropolis has witnessed the passage of conquerors, traders, and travelers between Central Asia and the Indian subcontinent. Today, Peshawar's walled Old City preserves this rich history in its narrow streets, bustling bazaars, and ornate wooden architecture. A heritage walk through this ancient urban core offers visitors a journey through time, where every lane tells stories of the Silk Road, Mughal emperors, and the region's diverse cultural influences.

The Old City heritage walk centers around two remarkable highlights: the legendary Qissa Khwani Bazaar (the "Storytellers' Market") and the magnificent Sethi House, a 19th-century merchant mansion showcasing the pinnacle of local craftsmanship. This guide will help you navigate this cultural treasure, offering insights that transform a simple walk into a profound cultural heritage tour.

Peshawar Old City Heritage Walk

Beginning Your Old City Heritage Walk: Orientation and Preparation

The traditional walled city of Peshawar is a dense, roughly circular area approximately 1.5 kilometers in diameter. While seemingly compact, its labyrinthine layout contains endless discoveries that could fill days of exploration. Most heritage walks begin near the historic site of Kabuli Gate — one of the original sixteen gates that once controlled access to the city, though the present structure is a reconstruction close to the original location.

Before setting out, prepare for your journey:

Wear modest clothing that covers shoulders, chest, and knees (especially important for women)
Comfortable walking shoes are essential for the uneven streets
Carry water, but know that tea shops appear regularly along the route
Consider hiring a local guide for deeper historical context and navigation
Start early morning (8-9 AM) to enjoy cooler temperatures and less crowded streets
Allow 4-6 hours for a complete exploration including stops

The heritage walk follows a roughly clockwise direction from Kabuli Gate, winding through the city's oldest quarters before reaching the celebrated Qissa Khwani Bazaar and ultimately the architectural marvel of Sethi House.

Qissa Khwani Bazaar: Where Merchants Once Shared Tales

The heart of Peshawar's Old City, Qissa Khwani Bazaar earned its name ("Storytellers' Bazaar") during centuries when Central Asian traders would gather in its teahouses each evening. Having parked their caravans for the night, these merchants would exchange stories of distant lands while sipping the famous Kahwah green tea that remains popular today.

While modern commerce has transformed some aspects of the bazaar, its essence remains intact. The narrow street runs through the southeastern part of the Old City, connecting several of its oldest commercial quarters, lined with shops selling everything from traditional crafts to everyday necessities. The sensory experience overwhelms first-time visitors – the air fills with the aroma of spices, grilled meat, and freshly brewed tea while craftsmen hammer copper and silversmiths create intricate jewelry in centuries-old techniques.

Key highlights within Qissa Khwani include:

Traditional Teahouses: Several historic teahouses still serve the signature Kahwah green tea in small cups. These establishments offer perfect resting spots during your walk while connecting you to the bazaar's storytelling tradition.

Copper and Brass Workshops: Watch artisans create and repair metal items using techniques passed through generations. The rhythmic hammering provides the bazaar's distinctive soundtrack.

Spice Merchants: Mounds of colorful spices create a visual feast and olfactory delight. Many vendors sell traditional spice mixes specific to Peshawar's cuisine.

Namak Mandi: Although not immediately adjoining Qissa Khwani, the nearby Namak Mandi area has become Peshawar’s premier food street, famous for its chapli kebabs and karahi dishes.

Visit in late afternoon to see the bazaar at its most active
Sample local specialties like kahwah tea and dried fruits
Engage respectfully with shopkeepers who often speak some English
Bargaining is expected but should be conducted politely

Qissa Khwani Bazaar

Sethi House: Architectural Jewel of the Old City

Just a short walk from the southern end of Qissa Khwani Bazaar stands the crown jewel of Peshawar's heritage architecture: the Sethi House. Built around 1882 by the wealthy Sethi family — prominent traders with business links across Central Asia and China — as part of a series of grand mansions constructed between 1835 and 1884, this mansion exemplifies the artistic heights of the region's traditional architecture.

The Sethi family constructed seven interconnected mansions within the Old City, but the main Sethi House (now a protected heritage museum) represents the most spectacular example. Its elaborate wooden façade conceals an even more impressive interior organized around a central courtyard. What distinguishes Sethi House is its remarkable synthesis of architectural influences:

Persian elements in the intricate mirror and glass work (sheesha)
Central Asian influences in the layout and structural design
Local Gandharan motifs in decorative wooden elements
Mughal inspirations in the courtyard arrangement

The house features exceptional examples of:

Wood Carving: Intricately carved screens, doors, and window frames showcase master craftsmanship.

Manoti (Mirror Mosaic Work): Tiny mirrors embedded in plaster create dazzling reflective patterns, especially in the winter guest rooms.

Rooftop Arrangements: A series of wooden wind-catchers engineered for natural cooling demonstrates sophisticated understanding of environmental design.

Secret Passages: Hidden staircases and storage areas speak to turbulent times when merchants needed to protect valuables.

Today, the Sethi House functions as a museum with a small entrance fee. Official guides provide detailed explanations of the architectural features and family history.

Sethi House

Hidden Treasures: Beyond the Main Attractions

While Qissa Khwani and Sethi House rightfully claim attention, numerous lesser-known sites along the heritage walk offer equally fascinating glimpses into Peshawar's past:

Mohabbat Khan Mosque: Built in 1670 by a Mughal governor, this exquisite mosque showcases classic Mughal architecture with white marble and intricate floral decorations. Non-Muslims may view the courtyard outside prayer times with permission.

Chowk Yadgar: This central square commemorates martyrs of independence movements and serves as a major orientation point within the Old City.

Cunningham Clock Tower: Officially called "Ghanta Ghar," this 1900 British-era construction marks the boundary between Old and New Peshawar.

Traditional Handicraft Centers: Workshops producing lacquered woodwork, embroidered textiles, and pottery reveal centuries-old craftsmanship traditions.

Site Name	Time Needed	Best Visiting Hours
Qissa Khwani Bazaar	1-2 hours	3:00-6:00 PM
Sethi House	45-60 minutes	10:00 AM-1:00 PM
Mohabbat Khan Mosque	30 minutes	10:00 AM (outside prayer times)
Artisan workshops	Varies	Morning hours

Cultural Etiquette: Respecting Local Traditions

Peshawar's Old City remains a deeply traditional area where observing cultural norms enhances your experience and shows respect for local communities:

Ask permission before photographing people, especially women
Remove shoes when entering homes, mosques, or other religious spaces
Accept tea when offered as a gesture of hospitality
Dress modestly - long pants for men, loose clothing covering arms and legs for women
Women travelers may consider wearing a scarf (not necessarily covering hair)
Greet people with "Salam Alaikum" (peace be upon you)
Learn a few phrases in Pashto, the local language

Most Peshawarites respond warmly to visitors who show genuine interest in their heritage and culture. Small courtesies and efforts to observe local customs often open doors to meaningful interactions.

Is a guide necessary for exploring Peshawar's Old City?

While independent exploration is possible, a knowledgeable local guide significantly enhances the heritage walk experience. The Old City's complex layout makes navigation challenging, and many historical details remain invisible without proper introduction. Guides explain architectural features, historical context, and cultural nuances while facilitating interactions with local shopkeepers and artisans. They also help navigate cultural sensitivities and provide security advice. Most hotels can arrange reputable guides for approximately 2000-3000 PKR ($10-15) for a half-day tour. The Tourism Corporation of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa also maintains a list of certified guides with specialized knowledge of cultural heritage. For the richest experience, select guides with specific expertise in Peshawar's architectural and cultural history rather than general city guides.

When is the best time to visit Peshawar for heritage exploration?

The optimal seasons for Peshawar's heritage walk are spring (March-April) and autumn (October-November), when temperatures remain comfortable for walking (15-25°C/59-77°F). Winter months (December-February) can be chilly but still pleasant for exploration, though some areas become shadowy and cold by afternoon. Summer (May-September) brings intense heat (often exceeding 40°C/104°F), making lengthy walks uncomfortable despite the Old City's shaded lanes. Regarding timing within your visit, weekday mornings offer the most peaceful experience, while afternoons bring livelier bazaar atmospheres. Friday mornings should be avoided as many businesses close for prayers. During Ramadan, schedules shift dramatically with many establishments closing during daylight and reopening after iftar (the breaking of the fast). The heritage walk experience varies throughout the year, with each season offering different insights into local life and traditions.

How safe is Peshawar's Old City for tourists?

Peshawar has experienced significant security improvements in recent years, making the Old City generally safe for tourists who exercise normal precautions and cultural sensitivity. The heritage walk areas, particularly Qissa Khwani Bazaar and surrounding districts, receive regular security attention and welcome international visitors. Practical safety measures include: informing your hotel of your itinerary; visiting popular sites during daylight hours; dressing modestly to respect local customs; avoiding photography of sensitive infrastructure; and considering a local guide who understands current conditions. Female travelers should ideally explore in pairs or small groups. Before planning your visit, check your country's latest travel advisories and local news. Most visitors report overwhelmingly positive experiences, often noting that Peshawar's residents display exceptional hospitality toward foreigners interested in their cultural heritage.

Peshawar's Old City offers one of South Asia's most authentic heritage experiences. Unlike more touristed historic centers, its ancient streets primarily serve local residents rather than visitors, creating an immersive journey into living history. The sights, sounds, and aromas that greet you in Qissa Khwani Bazaar would be recognizable to travelers from centuries past, while architectural treasures like the Sethi House showcase artistic achievements worthy of global recognition. For travelers willing to venture beyond Pakistan's better-known destinations, this cultural heritage walk provides a profound connection to one of the world's oldest continuously inhabited cities.

Planning Your Cultural Heritage Tour to Peshawar: Travel Documentation Guide

Before embarking on your exploration of Peshawar's rich cultural heritage, ensuring your travel documentation is properly arranged will create a smooth experience. Pakistan requires visitors from most countries to obtain appropriate entry permits before arrival. While the historic bazaars and ancient architecture await, addressing the practical aspects of international travel is essential first.

For convenience and reliability, many travelers arrange their Pakistani visa through specialized services that streamline the application process. After submitting your application, you can easily verify your visa application status online, allowing you to focus on planning your cultural heritage tour rather than paperwork concerns.

The atmospheric streets of Qissa Khwani Bazaar and the architectural marvel of Sethi House attract history enthusiasts and photographers from around the world. Before finalizing your cultural heritage itinerary in Peshawar, ensure you understand the service charges for visa processing based on your nationality and travel needs. Processing typically takes 7-14 business days for Pakistan visas, so factor this timeframe into your travel planning.

Once your documentation is secured and your journey to explore Peshawar's cultural heritage is confirmed, you can finalize your travel documents and turn your attention to the extraordinary experiences that await – from savoring traditional kahwah tea in centuries-old teahouses to admiring the intricate woodwork of merchant mansions that once hosted travelers from across the ancient Silk Road.

Related Articles: